Прокладка головки заменена, теперь есть проблемы с p 0011

I just recently completed head gaskets on my 2010 (had the heads slightly skimmed, minimally) and am now trying to figure out a P0011 code. When I reinstalled the chains, I quadruple checked all timing marks were aligned – I even turned it over enough times to get the painted marks on the chain to realign with timing marks (forget how many rotations that was…but it was a lot, maybe 15-20 rotations). Anyway, when I started the truck after completion it started fine. I let it idle and within 10-20 seconds the RPMs suddenly dropped (maybe a couple hundred RPMs) and CEL lit up. I believe it went in to limp mode as it wouldn’t rev. I shut the truck down, restarted it and it ran fine and then repeated the limp mode. I shut it down again and restarted and it ran and sounded fine. I didn’t have my code reader so I let it run for awhile with no issues, then drove the truck as I wanted to change the oil etc. The CEL came up while I drove home and showed:

P0012 Intake (A) Camshaft Position Timing – Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P2111 Throttle Actuator Control System – Stuck Open

Pending Codes:
P0304B Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0012 Intake (A) Camshaft Position Timing – Over-Retarded (Bank 1)

I cleared these codes and none came back. I believe going into limp mode had something to do with one of those (probably P2111). After clearing them, I drove and then had:

P0011 Intake (A) Camshaft Position Timing – Over Advanced (Bank 1)

The CEL is on as well as the traction control light (trucks starts easy, no rough idle). Things I’ve tried:

1. Clear the P0011 code and it comes right back. Checked the oil and level is fine. Oil is new 5w-30.
2. Removed the Bank 1 Oil Control Valve (OCV). I tested it with 12 volts and the action seems fine. I cleaned the OCV. Removed the driver Bank 2 OCV and checked ohms on both which are the same about 8.5.
3. I removed the OCV filter and cleaned it, seemed fine
4. Removed the bank 1 valve cover gasket and checked timing marks at TDC. Here’s a pic of the timing mark on bank 1 intake cam – looks pretty much right on. If anything the notch on the cam sprocket is ever so slightly shy of the notch on the bearing cap. I don’t know and now I’m second guessing myself about valve timing. Could it be off by a half a tooth and be the source of P0011?

I’m kind of at a loss on what to do next. Any ideas?? As far as the codes go, wondering why I had P0012 and now have P0011. It doesn’t seem like the OCV is the issue. Kind of dreading having to take the timing cover off again if it’s a timing issue. Appreciate any help..

Oh, also I removed the viewing cover to see the tensioner.

The tensioner is out quite a bit, a new chain will compensate for the milled head and likely fix the timing issue.

The chains stretch over time, if the OCV’s are clean and functioning this is likely the next course of action.

Good thought, thanks for the reply. Maybe I’ll have to go that route but .003 skim and now I have P0011 when I didn’t before? Wouldn’t that likely be P0016 code? The tensioner doesn’t seem overly extended from what I’ve seen when there’s stretch.

I don’t want to hijack the thread. But how can one tell if it’s out?
The distance of the tensioner?
How many mm is too much?

Its an experience thing, you can see the shiny new exposed part is compensating for the new milled head, on top of what I consider to be more than normal travel.

Whenever I do HG on 4.0 I always replace chain and tensioners, typically it will be out 50% less than that with a new fresh chain.

Nothing better than experience.

I agree, though reminds me of the quote “experience is what you get when you get what you don’t want..” which is exactly where I’m at.

Here’s a pic of tensioner on a Tacoma which had a stretched chain:

It appears quite a bit out from where mine is which is why I’m pondering whether that’s really the root cause of my P0011.

The cam sensor got plugged back in, right?

See my thread here regarding my VVTi / P0011 issues. I think page 3 has pics of new vs old OCV. Its not easy to visually check them unless you have a brand new one right right next to the old one. It doesn’t take much to cause an issue.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1gr-fe-bank-1-vvti-issues-p0011-p0012-p0016.770671/

Also for what its worth, both your OCVs are outside of Toyotas limits on the ohms. Im not sure if that really matters much though. My brand new one was on the high side right out of the box.

Thanks for the response. Your thread was one I read. Weird that your issue started when you hit a pothole. The cam sensors are plugged in. I noticed that the OCVs ohm reading was above spec but both were very similar. I wonder if it has to do with ambient temp? I thought I read to check at 68 degrees and it was hotter than that. I may end up trying a new OCV if I don’t get convinced to pull the timing cover and try a new chain..

Hoping it is something easy. My truck did have some weird electrical happenings when I started it – like the radio LCD screen wasn’t working and the key chime either but both now do. It had sat for a couple months while I did this repair (wasn’t rushed as driving other car) and the garage it was in was kind of damp at times so maybe there’s an electrical issue. Sometime during the repair the boss on the cable to the starter broke so I had to pull apart that harness to replace the starter cable. Could there be a short or bad connection to the OCV? But also since I just had the chain and cams off it’s hard to ignore that as the source of the problem..

Theres probably a procedure somewhere to test the OCV harness. Not sure off the top of my head. Given all the other codes cleared Im hopeful for you that its just a fluke with the OCV.

But to your point its hard to ignore the fact that the timing chain was just messed with